EMBARK August 30 – Embark Reykjavik

Arriving in the land Forged by Ice & Fire, we stayed at Hotel Keflavik & Diamond Suites. As we flew into Iceland, we saw that the active Sýlingarfell eruption. What a magical pre-trip evening excursion inspired by Katinka Puglia. The glowing molten lava during night viewing was spectacular.

D1 August 31 – At Sea

Pushing off early to avoid bad weather set to hit our originally planned visit to (Heimaey Island) we crossing the Denmark Straight. Following the path of the Vikings but on this state of the art vessel, the Seabourn Venture, captained by Simon Bishop.

D2 September 1 – Kulusuk Fjord/Tasiilaq

Arriving at the ‘largest island on our planet – Greenland’ Zodiac with Truls Kuhle. Glaciers birthing surreal giant iceberg sculptures, each with their own story. Beautiful light and textures including refrozen ribbons of deep blue ice. 

D3 September 2 – Umuvik/Skoldungen

Early morning light and increasing brash ice while scouting feasible access to Umivik. Afternoon transit towards Skoldungen Fjord allows for some zodiac rides among truly epic grounded icebergs. Neither the first nor last time Truhl’s precision tiller skills keep us safe during cleaving & rolling icebergs of epic proportion. Previously submerged portions revealed fanciful aquatic melt patterns. A symphony of unique Humpback Whale flukes signals the productive nature of these waters. A glassy calm evening cruise deeper into the fjord towards Thryms Glacier.

D4 September 3 – Thryms/Dronning Marie

First light kisses the jagged peaks at the back of this waterway crowning the relatively small Thryms tidewater Glacier. Expedition Leader, Luqui Bernacchi takes us on a zodiac cruise along the terminus ice front. Myriad glaciers cascade from the massive Greenlandic Ice Sheet above into many fingers as it drops towards sea level. Flying near the glacier reveals the deeply fractured seracs.

A photographer’s dream, the afternoon landing with John Shedwick further along the Skoldungen waterway at Dronning Marie Dal. Rain blesses us as does the red autumn splashes of dwarf foliage. Avoiding the expansive tidal flats scattered with glacial erratics and ice growlers we walk into an idllic lichen wonderland, filled with crowberry distractions.

D5 September 4 – Sermeq Kujataleq

Long transit South accesses the fractured inside passages off the tip of Southern Greenland. Geologist Robin Frisch-Gleason explains the 2 billion year old ancient gneiss rocks heavily rendered by millennia of glaciation at the Southern tip of the 2000 km Greenland Ice Sheet covering 81% of Greenland. The Sermeq Kujataleq Glacier spills off the final lip on its frozen torrent towards the ocean. The highly effective erosion zone between glacially polished bedrock, rock flower ladened meltwater cascades lubricating the indomitable weight of compacted ice. Although relatively quiet, any crumbling of ice from the ablation zone reminds us of the massive forces at work. This is why we go exploring to remote places of our World. 

D6 September 5 – Kangikitsoq/Tasermiut

In the pre-dawn hours, deep inside Prins Christian Sund, we reach the awe-inspiring beauty of Kangikitsoq with marine biologist Anjali Pande. Unique conical geological features called molards punctuate the stunningly beautiful landscape harkening from a time long passed. A dense and thriving carpet of life under our feet. During our afternoon cruise, the sheer scale of these glacially carved fjords defy imagination along with an appreciation for just what has to occur between a glacier revealing rock and living systems to take hold.

D7 September 6 – Igaliku & Hvalsey

A damp morning in the 1783 settlement of Igaliku with a visit to the Norse Garðar ruins. Local guide Haluni and archaeologist Elizabeth Pierce shared their passion for what was once the center of Norse Greenland.

Afternoon took us to the Hvalsey ruin with its magnificently constructed church. Geologist, Jon Sigurdsson told us about the last recorded Norse event here being a wedding on September 1408 because he is the direct 15th generation descendant of that couple. With the departure of the Norse, the Inuit would tell of the bells still ringing in the wind to empty fjords with nobody left to hear them. 

Late afternoon held a special opportunity to join a fjord dive with submersible pilot Merel Dalebout and Tom Maria. Descending  towards the drop stone studded glacial silt bottom complete with soft corals and sea stars. The greens of the plankton soup was perfectly segued with the green hues of the Aurora Borealis Northern Lights.

D8 September 7 – Qaqortoq

The artful community of Qaqortoq where stone carvings abound was the launch point for a helicopter ride with Johannes Kleynhans, up onto the QalerallitGlacier at the edge of the Greenland Ice Sheet. A field of diamonds under foot in sharp contrast to the otherwise feature-muted landing spot. 

Back on muddy ground, we explored town including visits to Qaqortoq Museum & church before returning to the ship for some beautiful evening light. Inuit kayak masters demonstrated how rolling in frigid waters is done to a ship lined with appreciatively dry observers.

D9 D7 September 8 – Brattahlid

Overlooking the farm area of 10th century Erik the Red, is a commanding statue of his son Leif Eriksson. A.D. 985 infamous Viking explorer Eric the Red sailed into Eriksfjord, establishing his private estate here at Brattahlíð. This area became known as the Eastern Settlement and around 5,000 Viking settlers eventually followed him here. Numerous Norse ruins can be found here and you ca explore a living history museum and a tiny sod-roofed church fueling your imagination about what Viking life looked like. Today, 100 people make their living farming sheep as the Norse did 1,150 years earlier.  An epic sunset followed by more Aurora, closed out the day.

D10 September 9 – Ivittuut

Geologist, Robin Frisch-Gleason explains how until 1986, this was once a busy American cryolite mining operation as the World’s only natural cryolite source important in aluminum production and influenced the outcome of both World Wars.

D11 September 10 – Nuuk (Godthab), Greenland

Greenland’s capital Nuuk, is a city of vitality and Greenlandic culture. With a thriving University and Greenland National Museum with its extensive historical archives and cultural displays.

Afternoon hike with local guide Lasse’s favorite area. We hiked along the coast at Kuanninnguit Paradise Valley, crossing streams before an adventurous climb up to waterfalls and higher altitude no-name lake. 

D12 September 11 – Sulussugutip Kangerlua

Landing with naturalist Nicoli Nery and all naturalist giving their take on why Greenland is so special to them.  A lichen wonderland with all life within a few inches from the ground. The best way to make a living here in the Arctic.

D13 September 12 – Evighedsfjorden/Eternity

Stunning scenery to end our trip. The Seabourn Venture hovers (dynamic positioning) in front of the Evighedsfjorden Glacier in Eternity Fjord giving us a final expedition outing of zodiac and kayak adventures. Kayak guides Alexandrea Tice and Ian Klynsmith paint the kayak adventure as the purest way to connect with such a raw and pristine environment and fitting given Greenland’s kayak culture. Landing on the perfect vantage point of a glacially polished promontory affords epic views of this final tidewater glacier of this expedition.